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Original Post By:
Goaticus
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Date: 2/28/2019 5:36:13 PM |
Hello my peeps! Long time no visit.
I have recently become the papa of a Polka-Lay-Lee. So, does anyone know what type of stings it need for it? What tuning does it take? And the little button that holds the strings in place, should it be glued down into the hole, or loose?
Also, what would be the recommended way to clean the body? The bridge moves, and I noticed most the body is considerably darker than underneath, so I assume it is years of built-up grime. It also came out of a storage unit and has what I suspect to be some fly or roach specks I'd like to clean off.
Thanks for any info you can spare me. |
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Posted By:
karl
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Date: 3/3/2019 1:28:10 PM
(Updated: 3/4/2019 1:00:51 PM)
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Congratulations! It's one of the most spectacular and funky ukuleles around...
The scale length (48cm) is in the baritone zone, but I've always tuned mine to C6 (GCEA) using tenor strings. You do need very long ones, the total length from 'tailpiece' holes to tuners is 80 cm. I've used D'addario Titaniums and some black nylon ones (I think, Hilos).
It's not one of the best sounding ukuleles, and the neck join is particularly weak. Also be careful when tuning: always grab the tuners near the shaft.
The plastic red string guiding button isn't glued in, it's kept in place through string tension. Same for the floating bridge. Do keep track of the red plastic bits while cleaning the instrument - they are more or less irreplacable.
Anything that gently cleans wood is fine - the Polk-a-laylee is made out of untreated plywood, so wooden furniture cleaner would be OK. I would start of with a mild detergent first, though. And a lot of elbow grease ;).
The visible footprint of the bridge is most likely caused by masking and the bleaching effect of UV light. It's impossible to rub off, the only logical solution would be to masking the top off, and to expose the footprint to a strong UV light for some days (while often comparing the obtained colour tone).
Enjoy that groovy uke!
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Posted By:
Goaticus
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Date: 3/4/2019 5:34:54 PM |
Thank you for the info! Yes I noticed the tuners are a weak point-gotta be gentle with them, which can be a challenge since I'm somewhat of a Baby Huey at times.
Especially the issue with the button-it did seem to remain in place well enough, but I wasn't sure.
What did you mean when you said, "Do keep track of the red plastic bits"; what plastic red bits do you mean? You mean the button? If so, that would explain my confusion, because it is black. I got the standard black version. Yes I will keep a close eye on that fellow!
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Posted By:
karl
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Date: 3/5/2019 2:53:14 AM |
| Ah, on my sample all the plastic bits are red: tuners, string guide, bridge, nut. all of them are near impossible to replace.
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Posted By:
J Boy Shyne
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Date: 3/5/2019 7:50:55 PM |
I had a Treholipee. I strung it re-entrant gCEA and used classical nylon guitar strings as follows:
E-1st string on classical guitar = A-1st string on Treholipee
B-2nd string on classical guitar = E-2nd string on Treholipee
G-3rd string on classical guitar = C-3rd string on Treholipee
E-1st string on classical guitar = g-4th string on Treholipee
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Posted By:
Goaticus
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Date: 3/6/2019 7:29:03 PM |
So that would be a low G? Cool, that might be easier than trying to find long enough uke strings. All I look at, of the tenor variety, are too short. Thanks!
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Posted By:
J Boy Shyne
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Date: 3/23/2019 2:43:05 PM |
No, re-entrant means high g. For low G, you use the 4th string (D string) of a nylon classical guitar set. So, for low G, you just use strings 1-4 from a guitar set. For high g, you use strings 1-3 and then one more 1st string for the high g.
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